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A Not So Rough Guide To
Northumberland
   

How to choose the perfect place for your bed and breakfast or cottage holiday in
Northumberland.
   
Northumberland is a very big county; finding just the right place to stay depends on what you like and what you want to do.

Of course, you'll love your Northumberland holiday, wherever you stay, whether it's in a bed and breakfast, guest house or hotel. You'll find that we offer the very highest standards, whether you're in a holiday cottage in the middle of our beautiful Northumbria countryside, or a holiday apartment in one of our lovely Northumberland towns and villages.


Two very busy Northumberland roads!
   
Central Northumberland -Alnwick, Rothbury, coast, castles and hills,
(Our area!)
First, we must tell you about our own area with its excellent accommodation in Northumberland. There's so much to see and do here and, from our central position, you can get to anywhere in the County with just a short pleasant drive. Still, to be fair to other areas (and help you decide!), we've put together a brief summary of them all later.

The area of Alnwick District contains a fine stretch of the Northumberland Heritage Coast, a National Park, magnificent castles at Alnwick and Dunstanburgh, Lord Armstrong's amazing House and Gardens at Cragside, Capablity Brown's masterpiece garden and the fine hall of Wallington, Brinkburn's well-preserved Priory and a host of other historic gems. It also has, of course, the enormously popular Alnwick Garden, brainchild of the present Duchess of Northumberland.

Additionally you'll find some of the UK's most beautiful countryside and its finest hill country around the Coquet Valley and one of England's prettiest villages in Rothbury.

Perhaps we should begin on the coast. To the north, the charming hamlet of Newton-By-The Sea marks the start of the wide sweep of wonderful Embleton Beach, curving gently all the way to the high crag on which stands the ruined but still magnificent Dunstanburgh Castle.

The best approach to the castle is from Craster - everyone's ideal of what a perfect little fishing village should be like. A breezy walk of just over a mile will get you there - well worth the effort!

To the south, you can drive or follow the coastal path all the way past the "secret beach" beside Longhoughton to the quiet village at Boulmer - a few houses and a pub; what more could you want?

A few miles further and you arrive at Alnmouth, a pretty village with a nice beach and its own little golf course - very pleasant! Next you come to Warkworth, once a port but bypassed by the river following a great storm - the river now comes out at Amble. Warkworth has a fine castle a gorgeous village centre and numerous eating places, befitting its touristy nature. A short walk over sand dunes brings you to its lovely beach stretching all the way back towards Alnmouth.

Further south again, as we begin to approach the old coal-mining area to the south-east of the County, the feel gradually changes. Amble is a former coal port which has made strenuous attempts to metamorphose into a tourist centre. A huge amount of money has been invested in the process, the result of which is mainly seen in the spectacular marina to the north.

As for the town itself, only the visitor can judge how successful has been the transition from port to resort. He will probably experience some difficulty in finding the beach - the fine sand-dunes and beaches of Druridge Bay still lie some distance to the south. On the credit side, though, he will meet inhabitants who are proud of their town and determined to make it a success, whatever the natural obstacles.

Inland from Alnmouth, Alnwick is the main centre and chief town. Its twin magnets are the vast and imposing Alnwick Castle (alias Hogwarts) and its Gardens. Expect to be astonished by the Duke's own luxurious home in the Castle Keep and its fantastic art collection - you may think that you've gone to the National Gallery by mistake. Meanwhile, the Gardens are great for all age-groups - but especially for the kids, who always have a great time. Don't miss it!

We've left the best bit to the last, as promised. Drive west from Alnwick. As you do, watch the views become higher and wider. Right at the top of Alnwick Moor, you'll feel that you just have to stop and take a photograph of the Cheviot View. Don't feel too sad when you leave, though. There are so many more where that came from!

Over the final moorland road at nearly 1,000 feet and you'll see the Simonside Hills come into view straight ahead. If it's clear, you can see right along the Cheviot ridge to the north-west and south-west, all the way to Cross Fell in Cumbria! To the south, you'll see Gateshead beyond Newcastle, to the east the North Sea. No wonder Trevelyan called this "the land of the far horizons"!

As you drop down towards the lovely Coquet Valley, you pass Cragside House - a fabulous old stately home, complete with huge grounds and 7,000,000 trees (we haven't counted them but we are sure that it's about right!)

Travel on to scenic Rothbury, set in a deep valley and facing the fine scarp of the Simonsides. You are now in perfect walking country and, as you continue up the valley, the hills become higher and wilder, the scenery even more beautiful than before. You can travel right up to Coquet Head and the aptly named Roman fort of Ad Fines, passing small but welcoming villages en-route - Thropton, Sharperton, Holystone, Harbottle and Alwinton, Netherton, Glanton and Whittingham. If you have never driven or ridden in and around the Coquet Valley, you haven't seen the best of the England!

Rothbury itself is one large hidden gem - a village with the amenities of a small town - or is that a small town which looks and feels like a village. Nobody really knows or cares; either way, it's a great place to visit and a great place to stay. One more thing - every tourist venue claims to have friendly people who offer a warm welcome - often the claim is not borne out in practice. That isn't a problem here - we can honestly say that a warm and friendly welcome from the locals is exactly what you will get!

Most visitors to our area come to visit Cragside, Alnwick and Wallington Hall, or to walk drive and cycle in our fantastic countryside and hills. Many, though, have found our other two secrets
- firstly, our great range of QUALITY Northumberland accommodation - it's all certified and graded by the official Visit-Britain Inspectors!
- our superb central position in Northumberland which ensures that you can get to any of the County's attractions in a pleasant drive. Two things we don't have are people and traffic - driving is still a pleasure here and nowhere takes very long to get to - as long as you can resist the temptation to stop and admire the views!

Three other hidden gems? Firstly, Howick Hall, once home to Earl Grey, and its wonderful gardens hosts the Earl Grey Tea Shop- don't miss it. Also, do try to make time to drive up the Coquet Valley beyond Alwinton to visit the more remote spots, like Clennell, or Barrowburn. Tranquility abounds!

South-east Northumberland
not just a post- industrial wasteland!

It's easy to dismiss this corner of the County as the relic of our industrial past. It certainly does cover the old coalfields and still contains most of the shops, offices and factories which replaced the collieries.

That does not mean that it isn't worth a visit. It also boasts some unspoilt countryside, an interesting museum and Saxon church at Woodhorn and a coastline which is often pretty, even though it can sometimes be unfavourably compared with the Heritage Coast to the north.

It's main town, Morpeth, stiles itself as an "ancient market town", though the visitor will look hard to find much evidence of that, since the town has been heavily redeveloped. Nowadays, only the Chantry and the old Clock Tower remain to hint at its former glories. Even so, it probably offers the most comprehensive retail centre north of Tyneside and a lovely riverside park.

Other local towns include Ashington and Blyth. Although, at first sight, they seem to have little of interest to the visitor, the latter is an important centre for the wind-turbine industry, with a wind-farm just off-shore and a splendid beach at Seaton Sluice, just to the south.

Further north is Newbiggin By The Sea. Basically an old resort which has seen better days, it's now making strenuous attempts to become more attractive to the 21st. century tourist, including the importation of vast quantities of sand to renew its beach. Time will tell how well it has succeeded but there is certainly no lack of effort. Hopefully the new beach will also help to keep out the sea - the land here consists of crumbling glacial boulder-clay, so the sea has advanced miles inland since Anglo-Saxon times.

To the west, the landscape softens and post-industrial towns gradually give way to country towns and villages, like Ogle and Whalton,( which still hosts a Baal Fire in July - like many old customs in Northumberland, this one is still kept alive).

Further west are some hidden gems. Belsay, with its castle and gardens, offers an entertaining day out, whilst even Ponteland (mainly known locally as dwelling place of well-off Tynesiders), has some interesting old buildings - The Blackbird, for instance ,just looks like a nice pub from the outside but contains part of a castle burnt down by the Scots in 1388!

West Northumberland
not just Hadrians Wall!
Of course, Hadrian's Wall is its crowning glory and, if you want to see the Wall in depth, it's your obvious choice. Depending on your level of fitness, you can walk miles along the wall itself, visit the bleak but imposing ruins of the Housesteads fort, or opt for more easily accessible venues, such as Chesters or the Roman Army Museum, above Greenhead (indoors, so useful on a rainy day!).

If the Roman remains are your chief interest, you should also visit Corstopitum (just outside Corbridge) and Vindolanda. Both lie some distance south of the Wall itself but are very well-preserved and full of interest.

But there is more to West Northumberland than that. The main town Hexham, is well worth a visit, with its splendid Abbey (largely constructed with stone pillaged from Hadrian's Wall!), a fine shopping centre and some interesting old buildings which have somehow survived the town's journey into the 21st. century.

There are other gems, too. Corbridge is a beautiful little town with a fine Anglo-Saxon church (if you like these, there are two more, close together at Bywell, just to the east). To the south lies the intriguing and historic village of Blanchland, which hardly seems to have changed since it was a centre of monastic life.

In the west of the area, the visitor can find other towns and villages which cater for the tourist. Of these, Haltwhistle is probably the most developed in this respect, though Haydon Bridge and Bardon Mill (both close to Vindolanda) should not be overlooked. The area also includes castles, gardens and beauty spots, such as Allen Banks and (a local favourite) Plankey Mill.

One hidden gem deserves a mention - Beltingham church with its amazing old yew trees (c.900 years) and its Anglo Saxon cross-shaft.

South-west Northumberland
an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

South of Hexham lies an area closely adjoining Cumbria and West Durham and which is more conveniently described under the heading of "North Pennines". Indeed, the landscape is often more reminiscent of the high Pennines of Yorkshire and Derbyshire than of the rest of Northumberland.

It is a land of high bleak hills, intersected by more fertile and welcoming valleys containing picturesque towns and villages like Carrshield, Catton, Allendale Town and Allenheads. Although the land rises to well over 2,000 feet at Kilhope Law, the impression is often one of boggy moorland rather than hills, though the views can be spectacular.

Whilst this area is self-evidently made for walkers (especially those wishing to get away from it all!), there is also rich industrial heritage just over the border into County Durham in the shape of the Lead Mining Museum at Killhope. It is also only a short drive to Appleby and Alston in Cumbria, as well as the two fine waterfalls of High Force and Cauldron Snout. It's also, of course, a good jumping-off point for a day in the Lake District.

Hidden gems? Drive along the road from Hexham to Alston, where it snakes down into the valley at Staward Pele and along into Whitfield. Make sure that your brakes work first!

North-West Northumberland
Forests, Lakes and Hills.
North of Hexham lies the valley of the North Tyne and its tributaries, notably the River Rede. North Tyne and Rede alike cut their way deeply through the high hills of the Cheviots, surrounded by the enormous Kielder Forest. On their journey, both have been dammed to create the reservoirs of Kielder Water and Catcleugh.

Whilst Catcleugh predominantly exists to provide a water supply for Tyneside, Kielder has been developed as a tourist attraction, much visited by day trippers and longer-stay visitors alike. The lake hosts a wide range of watersports and the surrounding hills and forests are much frequented by walkers.

The main town in the area is Bellingham, which hosts a fair range of tourist facilities, as well as providing a retail centre for the immediate surrounding countryside. Visitors should also be sure to see Otterburn, site of the famous Battle in 1388 and home to the popular Otterburn Woolen Mill. Other villages include Kielder itself, Wark, West Woodburn, Falstone and Greenhaugh. Elsdon, a village close to Otterburn, is worth a trip, as is Rochester, which has a fine Roman Fort.

The area provides a good jumping-off point for trips across the border to Scotland, either via the A68 to Jedburgh or, more scenically, via the Deadwater Valley north of Kielder. It also caters well for walkers and watersports enthusiasts.

A hidden gem - close to Bellingham, take the walk to the waterfall at Hareshaw Linn, hidden in a craggy gorge!

North-East Northumberland
Berwick, Lindisfarne, Coast and Cheviots
The much-fought-over Berwick upon Tweed is by far the largest town and hosts a wide variety of retail outlets. An obvious gateway to Scotland, it welcomes large numbers of visitors who come mainly to walk around its magnificent and perfectly-preserved town walls. That walk and the views it affords of country and coast is unmissable although the town centre itself is not especially scenic in spite of its evident ancient heritage.

Just to the west is Halidon Hill, site of a major battle between England and Scotland; it makes for a pleasant and interesting day out. From the top, the view extends far into Scotland all the way to the Eildon Hills close to Melrose. Obviously, days out can include forays into Scotland, especially to Eyemouth and St. Abbs Head to the north (if you go this way, don't miss Coldingham Bay).

Further to the south-west, the landscape becomes hillier as you approach the high Cheviots. Wooler is the unofficial local "capital" in these parts, surrounded by good hill-walking country. Many people might naturally aim to climb The Cheviot itself, as the highest point hereabouts but there are many other local favourites - the lovely rounded slopes of Hedgehope, the hill forts of Yeavering and the College Valley and the area around Ros Castle and Hepple demand further attention, as does an excursion to Flodden Field, site of the especially bloody battle in which James IV of Scotland perished.

Other "must-sees" include Chillingham with its grim castle and unique herd of wild white cattle and a ride on the narrow-gauge railway at Heatherslaw Mill.

The other tourism magnet is, of course, the coast. The holy island of Lindisfarne is possibly the most visited spot, with the only approach across a tidal causeway - don't try to race the tide - it always wins! Visitors can admire the amazing castle, the ruins of its Priory, sample the famous Lindisfarne mead and ramble amongst the dunes. An essential visit, though tourists considering a longer stay should be those seeking a peaceful retreat - the island can become very quiet when the tide rolls in and the weather is usually what you might expect on an island, stuck in the middle of the North Sea!

South of Lindisfarne lies Bamburgh, with its magnificent castle perched on a high cliff. A lovely village with a fabulous visit to the castle and a fine beach backed by dunes stretching all the way to Seahouses to the south.

Seahouses is the gateway to the Farnes; barring storms and high waves, every day sees numerous boat trips heading out to the islands, their seabirds and seals! The town itself has a charming harbour, a bustling town centre - and caravan sites, a plethora of fish and chip shops and the occasional amusement arcade. In this commercialised aspect, the town is quite unlike the rest of the County's coastline but is pleasant enough none the less.

From here, southwards, the coast continues past sand dunes and golf courses through Beadnell towards the Alnwick area - altogether just what you should expect from a Northumberland holiday!

 
Well, that's about it. Now you know what's here. It's a lovely County and you'll like it wherever you go - but we hope that you'll choose us.
If you do, we look forward to meeting you - if not, have a great time anyway!
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RACTA - Rothbury and Coquetdale Tourism Association
Rothbury, Northumberland, UK
For more tourist information please ring Rothbury TIC on +44 (0)1669 620887